Timpano di Maccheroni

The popular contemporary film THE BIG NIGHT is a story about two brothers recently emigrated from Italy struggling to operate an 'authentic' Italian restaurant in a small New Jersey town whose residents prefer the style of cooking now featured in places like the Olive Garden. The plot revolves around preparation of a grand feast for a special occasion, including a marvelous appetizer called 'timpano' in the film. Although the feast consists of many glorious courses, everyone I know seems to be impressed only by the timpano, as I have been informed by countless friends and patrons who have requested it to be served at the Cafe. 

And so it is.

The term timpano is either a family name or a dialectic term for a traditional preparation called in Italian timballo, and in French timbale. The Italian word means kettledrum and the preparation featured in the movie is fundamentally a casserole wrapped in pastry dough, shaped like a drum. We have been serving it as an appetizer, although it is sufficiently abundant to constitute a robust meal--well suited to satisfy the hunger and nutritional needs of, say, a cross country ski team after a tough competition. 

Italians prepare timballi in many ways, filling the drum with everything from little birds (uccellini) to candied fruits. Our timpano di maccheroni will follow the lines of the movie, although details of preparation were not revealed; only the majestic presentation . Not to worry; we have discovered the secrets of timpano and are eager to share them with you.

Our technique is: 

1. line a 10 inch spring-form pan with pastry dough; 
2. fill it, in layers, with a rich variety of meats, vegetables, pasta, some cheese, copious herbs and a drizzle of olive oil; 
3. cover the top and sides with pastry dough after the ingredients are assembled; 
4. coat the top with egg-wash; 
5. bake at 400 degrees until it is crisp and deeply
colored, about 45 minutes; 
6. let stand for about 30 minutes; and, 
7. cut it in wedges to serve. 

Abbondanza!!

Ingredients, Utensils and Preparation: To serve 8 hungry ski racers

1 Spring-form Baking Pan 10" 

Pastry Dough: Making pastry dough will be the subject of another class. (Julia Child can be found making it on at least 3 cable channels at any time of the day or night). Besides, there are enough steps in this preparation to maintain the cook's interest. Do yourself a favor by using Pepperage Farm or some other brand of puff pastry found in the frozen food section of your local 'super'. The great Italian food guru Giuliano Bugialli says that pastry dough must rest in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours. Who's got 4 hours?

Polpettone: Meatballs. Actually, we will make one giant meatball in the shape of meatloaf. This shape allows for easy cutting and fits nicely into the timpano.

Ingredients:

1 lb. ground beef, pork, veal--your choice 
1 cup bread crumbs
3 eggs
3 cloves chopped garlic
4 tbs. parsley chopped 
1 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
salt and pepper to taste 


Preparation: Mix together, shape into a meatloaf and bake at 450 degrees for 1/2 hour. 

Sausage: Use at least 2 kinds of sausage. We will use pheasant sausage and Italian style pork sausage with fennel-- total of 8 links.

Preparation: Bake the sausages until they are cooked through, about 1/2 hour at 450 degrees. 

Chicken: 2 whole breasts, each cut in half , yielding 4 half breasts.

Preparation: Season the breasts with salt, pepper, fresh herbs such as rosemary & sage; brush with olive oil. Grill breasts on both sides until cooked through.

Vegetables: 1 medium eggplant, 2 large red peppers, 1 medium zucchini, 3 medium potatoes,2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes.

Preparation: Slice the eggplant 1/4 inch thick; cut the peppers on both ends, take out the core and flatten the pieces for grilling; cut the zucchini 1/4 inch lengthwise. Brush the vegetables with olive oil, salt & pepper to taste, then grill the vegetables over coals, do not over cook. Peppers may be 'roasted' by allowing skin side to burn (turn black) then pealing away the burned skin. Boil the potatoes, let them cool then slice 1/4 inch thick. Crush the tomatoes, add 3 tbs. olive oil, 2 cloves of minced garlic, fresh parsley and basil if you have it.

Pasta: 1 pound of lasagna

Preparation: Cook the lasagna, al dente, in plenty of water with 2 tbs. of salt--about 10 minutes. Drain the pasta then rinse with cold water to cool. Dress with a little olive oil to prevent sticking and provide flavor. 

Cheese: 1 cup of grated mozzarella and 1/2 cup of grated Pecorino Romano. You might substitute Parmigiana, Fontina, Fontinella, Fresh Mozzarella in combinations of your choice. 

Assembly

1. All the ingredients above should be organized for final assembly and none should be above 'warm' in temperature. 

2. Allow the pastry crust to thaw. Dust it with a little flour. Butter the inside of the spring- form.

3. Remove the bottom of the spring-form. Cut the dough to fit the round bottom. Cut another piece of dough 1/2 inch larger than the bottom round layer. This will be for the top. Re assemble the spring-form pan and cover the bottom with the cut dough. Cut strips of remaining dough to fit along the sides. Seal the side edges to the bottom rim of dough. Use a little egg wash along the bottom edges. At this point the spring-form pan is lined with pastry dough.

4. Arrange the ingredients in layers beginning with pasta. Spoon a bit of the canned tomatoes and cheese over the pasta then continue layering with the meatloaf sliced about 1/4 inch thick. Use your imagination when layering, but be sure to include a layer of pasta about half way up in the pan. This will absorb liquid and facilitate the desired firm internal texture. The final layer should also be pasta, with a little tomato sauce and cheese.

5. Cover the casserole with the remaining cut dough, seal the edges. Do not extend the edges beyond the rim of the spring-form pan because the dough will expand during the baking process, preventing easy removal of the expandable sides.

6. Brush the top with egg wash, make a few decorative incisions in the top then place in the oven at 400 degrees for about 45 minutes. When the timpano is browned remove it and let it stand for at least 30 minutes. Remove the spring-form sides. Cut in generous wedges and serve.

Jim Rua "Oh, Baby!" April 1997

Our classes feature this recipe occasionally at The Cooking and Wine Society


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